Thursday, March 23, 2006

If this is not my last post of the blog it is one of the last two until I hit the road again. I wanted to give a few wrap up bits and advice for anyone doing the same thing.

Here is a (far from complete) list of 25 conclusions drawn, lessons learned, and advice offered for an extended trip

1.) Rail Passes aren't always a good idea. With the advent of discount airlines in Europe, you really have to think hard whether traveling by rail is a good idea. It is generally expensive (a rail pass is every bit of 40 euros per day when doing a "flexi-ticket". Throughout Spain and Italy, train tickets are fairly cheap (Rome-Naples was 25 euros with return).

2.) On a related note, consider cheap airlines like Ryan Air, easyJet, et al. It is possible to fly to London Stanstedt (a hike from everything you want to see but still...) for 10 euros + taxes. If you are on a more strict timetable it may be even more worthwhile. Like their domestic counterparts, you need to book in advance.

3.) Don't take jeans. I took one pair and they were such a pain to deal with. Dryers are far from ubiquitous in Spain and Italy, and if you are drying them au natural, it takes lots of time. Instead, try thinner cargo pants like you find at Walmart for 15 bucks. Not only do they roll well, but the huge pockets let you keep your dictionary, travel guide, pens, and more at easy access.

4.) The people in Spain are very friendly especially in Andalusia. Frequently they will even switch to English at least to ask you if you would prefer to speak it over Spanish. They always appreciate your effort however. I found the same to be true in Italy, where I did not speak the language (though Spanish helped a lot there). If they didn't speak your language they would always at least point you in the right direction. I even found this to be true in Munich where people warned me the German population wasn't as warm to tourists (never understood that, also great people). Paris was even decent with the list of preparations I made (check that post)

5.) Take an MP3 player. They aren't that expensive (I got mine for 99 bucks at Walmart) and if you have a book on tape, music, or even talkshows that will make long boring train rides much more palatable. That said, break it out only when you are either alone, or with people that are sleeping. The conversations you have with others will be far more memorable than whatever you are listening to. As an aside, I recommend the Phil Hendrie Show (or for mentally disturbed and twisted people like me, the Opie and Anthony show but Audible gave me a fit with my player) for both news/commentary and comedy.

6.) Make sure you stray off the tourist path once in a while. It is so tempting to just have a brochure visit to a country but that doesn't give you an accurate picture of the nation (or more accurately the city). I remember hearing people tell me they loved traveling to the US. Where did they go? New York City. Most people loved Florida. By Florida they mean Magic Kingdom and Epcot. Not only is there more to Florida than Magic Kingdom and Epcot, there is more to Disney World than the Magic Kingdom and Epcot. Some of my most memorable moments were far removed from the fatsos with fannypacks under yellow umbrellas.

7.) Learn some of every language of every country you visit. I know people speak English, I get it. Still, you make a much better impression if you can ask them in their language if they speak English and say thank you. That is what is known as absolute minimal effort. Here is a slightly more comprehensive list

I am sorry, I do not speak ______ Do you speak English?
Where is the bathroom?
I would like...
Thank you
Please
Your Welcome
Left, Right, straight,
How far(distance/time) is
Excellent
Cheers
I love _______

That takes no time to learn (or very little) and you will probably find the reaction of others to be far better. Your mileage may vary. And of course, if you know far in advance that you are going to a certain country (for example 2 weeks in Italy), pick up a guide book with common phrases and do more than that list.

8.) Don't fall into the trap of thinking you only speak English. BS. You speak enough to order food without falling back on your linguistic crutch. Doing the Europe bit as totally made me lose ALL respect for Spanish (or any speaker of western languages...I will cut Asians more slack because it is SO different) immigrants who ask for picture menus or Spanish speakers at McDonalds. That is pure, 100% laziness on their part and don't let any bleeding heart tell you otherwise. I was one of them (to a lesser extent) before I left, essentially arguing that learning a language is so difficult, and hey you don't speak another language either so be patient! Yeah I was an idiot. Quiero un Big Mac, Ich mochte eine Big Mac lather rinse repeat according to geographic location. It ain't that hard. I bought a cell phone using Spanish two or three weeks after arriving in Marbella which is far more complicated than figuring out what soda you want to drink. Every immigrant gets a four week grace period before fast food transactions should be in English.

9.) If you are going to Europe for the first time and can't figure out where you want to go and you only have 7-10 days (10 should be the minimum) you should definitely pick Italy. Between the Alps of the north, the rolling hills of Tuscany, the majesty of Rome, the Caserta palace and the ruins of Pompeii in Naples all the way to the land of the Godfather in Sicily (unfortunately I didn't make it that far south...or to Caserta for that matter) you really can't go wrong. Of course the true highlight of any Italian trip is the Gelati (ice cream!) and pizza which I found it better in Rome and Naples than in Florence.

10.) English is an "easy" language to learn. If we had say-what-you-see pronounciation it would be the PERFECT language. I asked many people who speak 3 languages (where English was 2nd or 3rd) and almost without exception, they said English was the easiest to pick up. Who were the people that said otherwise? Brazilians and Dutch. For Brazilians, some (less than half I met) told me that they found Spanish to be easier. For those of you that have never seen Portugese written, it is nearly exactly Spanish. For one Dutch man I met, he found either English or German to be easiest (too close to call).

11.) Youth Hostels don't always make sense in Spain if you are travelling with others. Hostals (hostels are called Albergue Juvenil or Hostels) are usually one or two star hotels. Clean rooms, with a bed, a bathroom (frequently in the room) and occasionally a tv for less than 40 euros a night. So why should you stay at a hostel? It is more fun. You meet an interesting collection of folks no matter where you stay. Oh and usually there is no limit on age. My accomodation list

Casa de Felipe - Avila, Spain
- The last time I walked into a restaurant/hostal I was surrounded by hash. I am glad I decided to give this one a chance, as it was great and cheap (though I wouldn't eat there)
Hostal ________, Toledo, Spain - I forgot the name of this place (maybe Angela can help me out) but it had a great "view of Toledo" (I think I got all the mileage out of that substandard pun that I can possibly get), however the lack of warm water was rough.
Funky Backpacker's Hostel - Granada, Spain - Great friendly hostel (I returned to it) with free web access
Hostal Zurita - Granada, Spain - In Plaza Trinidad. Nice location with TV (shared bath)
Hostal Seville - Granada, Spain - Also in the Plaza Trinidad, no hot water...uff
Albergue Juvenil - Seville, Spain - Clean, hospital like atmosphere, cheap (12 euros), good water, far from the action
Hostel Archi Rossi - Florence, Italy - Great place to stay, real breakfasts, good atmosphere, tied for the best place I stayed while in Europe
Waiting Room - Torino Train Station, Italy - You have to sleep in chairs, but it is free
Pop-Inn Hostel - Rome, Italy - The worst hostel I stayed at (still pretty decent) in Europe. It's appeal is its impossibly close location to the Termini station. The Shared Bathrooms have ridiculous ratios of at least 15 to 1. Plus the American running it recommended a local eatery that was a rip off.
The Wombat - Munich, Germany - This is the other one in the running for best hostel. Great hot water pressure, on site laundry, bar with free drink (each stay) and Paulaner on tap. Really ridiculously clean.

12.) Eating doesn't have to be expensive and you don't have to eat McDonalds either. Bakeries are great places to pick up an Empanada, a loaf of bread, or a local specialty. All of which are usually in the 1-3 Euro range. Restaurants, are more expensive (especially in touristy areas) and they take time! Supermarkets are great places to pick up the necessities and it lets you see normal people in normal life. Also if you want a cafe atmosphere, go away from all the sights. In Salamanca, Angela and I had Cafe Con Leche, Lasagna, Meatballs, Greenbeans and something else (Tapa sizes) and water for less than 5 euros. Oh and 5-10% tipping is just dandy in restaurants, and completely overkill for bartenders.

13.) Don't be picky regarding food. I ran into so many people that said "I hate eating in Spain because you never know what all is in the food". Unless you have a death allergy just eat it. Believe me you won't keel over. What is the worst that happens? You spit it into a napkin with your choice of discreetness. Who cares?

14.) Don't bring/rent a bike or car for Europe. Melvin told me he considered buying a bike, getting it checked, assembling it for city use, dissembling it and bringing it back to New York. He later was very glad he didn't do that. However, next to driving in Rome, the bike plan sounds like one of the most brilliant ideas since electric lighting. You don't need cars in Europe...just don't do it. Of course, ignore advice on both if you are going out into the country. If I had more time on my trip while I was in Florence, I would have gone on a (one or two) day bike tour of Tuscany.

15.) Be careful on public transportation. I was overly paranoid about pickpockets, but you can prepare yourself to lower your risk. Always put your leg through your backpack, don't keep much money in your wallet, wear a money belt, and an around the neck pouch. Try not to look lost (don't break out that map/tourist book in seedy areas), and keep moving. In all the stories of people that got pickpocketed the situation was ALWAYS the same. They were stationary (subways and buses usually) and were distracted. The scumbags that do that are not magicians, the can't freeze and resume time. Put your hand on your belongings and be alert...you'll be fine. Oh and ask your hostel where you should not go in the city. Usually Bus Stations and Train Stations are not the best at night.

16.) Don't bring a laptop unless you are staying in hotels with safes or some place you really trust (family or friends). Cyber cafes (in Spain they are frequently called Locutorios) are everywhere and it is just not worth the hassle. I also recommend you get a USB 8 in 1 card reader. Not all cameras can just plug in and have the photos accessible. Similarly, don't bring anything like a hair dryer. I don't care what kind of converter you have, it isn't going to do the job. Oh and Alarm Clocks should be battery powered. They use 50Hz instead of 60, so unless you want to lose 2 hours a day, just buy it there.

17.) Start a travel blog! It is not difficult (it helps to do a practice entry before you leave) and blogger makes it really easy to share your experiences/pictures. It is perfect for keeping in contact with large groups of people without pestering those that couldn't possibly care less. I also recommend blogger because they automatically give you an RSS feed that others can tap in to. Just don't let your blogging stop you from seeing sights (night time is usually good for writing) If you aren't blogging, at least keep a journal. Days can feel like weeks and you will not remember many details from your trip after you get back. Also try to get photos with people you meet along the way (especially if you spend more than a day with someone or a group of someones).

18.) Contrary to what Douglas Adams thinks, don't bring a towel. The hostels usually supply them for free or a slight charge. They take up valuable backpack space and if damp really stink up your other clothes.

19.) Spend a few nights in the same place to avoid feeling stressed. If you pick a place that is more or less central to sights it helps...alot. For example, Florence is near Pisa and not too far from Milan (3 hour train). I was able to spend 4 nights at the same place which allowed me to get comfortable. When you stay for a night somewhere, then change the next you will go crazy. If you get a chance, book ahead of time. Hostelworld.com is a good resource.

20.) Similar note, ask people where to stay (or where not to) while at hostels. Hostellers are the best source of information about accomodations, restaurants, cool places to visit, etc. Plus, everyone loves to unload their tidbits/cautionary tales.

21.) If you need something cheap, the dollar store equivalents of Spain are "Tiendas de Chinos" frequently called Chinese Bazaars. It is all cheap crap, but it saves you a lot of money at times. My 14 euro alarm clock could have been 2 at the local tienda de chinos, and for two euros I wouldn't care if the snooze button was pure lead that had to be licked to activate.

22.) Buy a travel book (Lonely Planet is pretty good) because they will have valuable information (such as numbers to call a Taxi) and when it is late (or not), going through accomodation phone numbers is much better than physically walking and getting turned away.

23.) If you are buying a backpack, look for Eagle Creek. They make good quality stuff, and for "urban" travel, those hiking packs are tougher to use. You want something that is almost like a suit case on your back.

24.) Traveler's checks are not always best, especially in Spain. ATM's have good exchange rates and are more convenient. Some banks won't exchange them! Oh and the street side guys seldom have good rates (always ask for the commission)

25.) Enjoy all the experiences. Even when things go wrong and you are mad (like I was in Toledo) it is usually pretty funny afterwards. Just walking around can be a blast. When Ayinger's brewery was closed, walking through the snow with the old man that kept staring at my beer finally pointing me to a train stop in the middle of nowhere, was one of the most memorable experiences of my trip.

My Top 10 favorite European cities (just this trip)

1.) Rome, Italy - The eternal city doesn't disappoint. The colloso, the foro, the Trevi Fountain, the Vatican and much more. I said it once but it bears repeating, The Trevi Fountain, MUST be seen at night.

2.) Florence, Italy - It is a/the Renaissance city how can you lose? The Duomo is surprisingly massive. The various bridges, the museums etc. Really safe, even late at night.

3.) Seville, Spain - The capital of Andalucia is very modern, clean, and has the best gothic building I saw. Naboo's Plaza De Espana was an added bonus.

4.) Venice, Italy - This could easily swap with Seville, but it is just a little too touristy. Still incredible and a must see if you are in the country. Even in less than perfect weather it is pretty sweet.

5.) Munich, Germany - Between the stroll to Neuschwanstein, the meandering in Aying, and the wandering through the city center on snowy nights, I got to give Munich a numero uno for places to walk. Really beautiful town, plus im Munchen steht eine Hofbrauhaus! I got to hit this place in late September ;)

6.) Salamanca, Spain - This point starts the painful choosing favorite children. Salamanca is a small town so it has way more culture and interesting places to visit than it has any right to. The mindblowing Plaza Mayor, Frog Spotting, Chocolate with Churros, and the ability to see every type of architecture imaginable edges out Avila and Toledo.

7.) Avila, Spain and Toledo, Spain - Between the excitement of Madrid and the siren's call of Toledo, there is a tendenancy to overlook this gem of Castile-Leon. It (and Toledo) is a world heritage site for good reason. The wall that surrounds the city is probably one of the most intact of its kind in the world. Toledo, built around the time of the Avila wall, was amazing too. The tiny streets, the cathedral and for a taste of something ultra modern, the Luz de Tajo mall all add to the intrigue of this ancient (and new) city. Connecting trains to Madrid run frequently (though not frequently enough, as the later ones are often full) and only take 35 minutes.

9.) Paris, France - I didn't get to see the City of Lights at night, but I was quite impressed with the cleanliness of it (something I had been warned about) as well as the nice layout of the monuments. Definitely worth a few days (heck the Lourve is probably worth one to itself). Good luck figuring out the metro (the letter-numbers are splits on a main line...I think)

10.) Madrid, Spain and Granada, Spain - Madrid feels like a combination of Paris and what I think London would be like. Nice, modern city...in other words out of place in Spain ;)
Granada is where the Moorish presence is felt the most. The Alhambra is magnificent and a must see. The skiing in the nearby Sierra Nevada gives you an amazing view, which is worthwhile even for non skiiers or summer visitors.

Okay I guess one more blog will be needed to show my favorite photos taken during the trip

Here is one from Avila that never made the blog but I liked nonetheless.















---Joey

2 comments:

Anonymous said...

Joey, Are you staying up all night writing? Good advice, though.
Because your Uncle and I are too old for adventure sleeping, we'll pass on the train station. The hostel with beer on tap sounds good.
Do American cars seem big to you? Does Tampa seem not that big? Do you feel like you should be walking somewhere?

Apropos of nothing, I was reading a funny recipe for Scottish eggs at recipesource.com, and it mentions Kokanee beer. Ever heard of it? I also found a site you might keep in mind once you start to cook; it's called cookingforengineers.com.

Love,

Tia

Joey said...

Hehe, yeah that is a long blog, but I think I am going to post that to a travel messageboard where I got some good advice (some of it in that list).

American cars seem big but because I ran into Americans along the way they frequently reminded me of how small the Euro ones are. Naturally the streets make larger cars impractical and the quasisocialism that exists on the continent raises the prices to a ridiculous level.

Tampa does not seem to big, but it seems very spread out. I definitely feel like I should be walking somewhere. Today Dad and I went down a trail near the house. I may need to get a bike :)

Kokanee is a Canadian lager (in the American Macro style) which seems out of place in Scottish food. I have not tried it but with the reviews I am not inclined to seek it out. Although to be fair, there are times where I disagree with the general consensus of the reviewers.

Thanks for the cookingforengineers site. That looks like it has some good stuff.

--Joey