I started taking a look at the rail pass brochure and I just am a bit puzzled that the Tourism Board, Yokoso Japan (Welcome Japan!) would choose, er this as the cover.

--Joey

The flying option was surprisingly inexpensive and presumably a lot more convenient. The only problem was the flight was at 6am meaning we had to arrive at the airport by 4:30. Made for a real short night (after midnight, I couldn't get back to sleep). Before catching the tram to the terminal, everyone had to empty their pockets of anything liquid or gel like. This one guy with a big piece of luggage was asket to fit it into their simulated overhead compartment. It didn't fit, naturally, so he shoved it in with gusto claiming that he flies all the time. That may be but it still didn't fit. With the tram doors opening he felt an extra sense of urgency and began yanking on the straps to get the bag out and in doing so lifted the sign and box off the ground, damn near knocking the lady guarding the table in the head. Her counterpart yelled "Now sir, what are you doing to do when you start pulling the plane apart?"
We landed and picked up our rental car (we upgraded to an SUV because a few fans came with us that didn't have rides) and headed off to Legion Field. The stadium is old, historic and in the middle of the ghetto. Stereotyping 101: That must mean there are good barbeque joints near by. The parking attendant suggests Rheno's. We walk over and there is this cracked out lady handing out flyers telling us to eat there and to tell the staff she brought us in. Umm..alright. "We were actually looking for Rheno's" "Yeah yeah this is it" The flyer said "M&E eatery". Whatever the name is, it looked like there must have been some bribing of the health inspector to keep it open.
Around halftime we went in search of concessions. A table with a guy making mixed drinks and pouring icehouse into styrofoam cups. Alright, time to take a leak. No soap, or paper towels (Kim ended up getting soap from the womens room for us). Scott started stretching by pushing on the supports to which Kim said "Scott, don't! You'll knock the stadium down".
After the game we headed over to Ruby Tuesday in a safer part of town, and from there went to Vulcan Park: Home of the 2nd largest statue in the US. Not wanting to press our luck we headed back to airport a little early to find the flight delayed by 2 hours so I threw a foam football around with a few kids.
Greetings from Longboat Key
Each morning I have been trying to walk a couple of miles to get me back into some sort of exercise routine. One morning, I stumbled on a dead sea turtle. The Mote Marine Aquarium was taking it in and, I believe, marking off the new nests from the night before. After seeing the size of that turtle, I think they are probably finding new nests by footprints rather than looking for disrupted sand as I had originally thought.
The Americans are coming - The Americans are coming
After putting our bags down we made a bee line to Westminster Abbey which, according to Dad, is apparently featured prominently in The Da Vinci Code. It was closed, so we went to Trafalgar Square.
Emily: I want to feed the birds
We finished our sightseeing by having a shortbread and soda dinner along the Thames with a view of Parliament and the London Eye.
But here is the coolest part. As Em and I are walking through the choir section we noticed there are two tiles missing. We ask a worker what he was doing (although it didn't sound like that when we said it) and he told us that occasionally some of the marble tiles get significant cracks which pose a danger (all the crypts and chambers under the church make it difficult to avoid) and as such anytime it is determined that a tile is unsafe/a knighting is coming it most be replaced. He then added "You are welcome to take a piece" referring to the chipped marble in the bucket. Best...souvenir...ever!
We went walked across the London Tower Bridge (which I always had confused with London Bridge). It was built in the late 19th century...out of wood, and was refurbished after the war which explains why it looks so new. As an added bonus, we got to see it open for a ship.
We looked into a London Walk but unfortunately we were about 20 minutes too late so we headed to St Paul's Cathedral and stopped off for a Cask Ale (Young's Bitter and Greene King IPA). A Cask Conditioned Ale is unfiltered, unpasteurized goodness (aka Real Ale) and is highly different than what most fizzy yellow lager (BudMillerCoors) drinkers are used to. This is type of beer that makes people say the Brits drink warm beer (they don't; it is typically served at ~60F or 15C) that is flat (they don't artificially add CO2). The Cask Ale tradition is in a bit of jeopardy. Younger Brits are moving to malternatives, hard liquor, and macro beers from Europe and the States. Cask Ales are also more difficult to preserve due to their traditionally wee alcohol content (usually 3-4%) but CAMRA (CAMpaign for Real Ale) has been actively defending and promoting the style. Make sure your visit to London (or the UK in general) includes a tasting.
Since we were still in the neighborhood we took the tube to Tower Hill to see London Tower and the Tower Bridge at night. The area was deserted so we were reluctant to spend too much time showing off our tourist status by snapping photos like crazy. Fortunately when we approached the water a ship pulled in with school age kids in formal wear, so that put our fears to rest. For all we know that area is perfectly safe but not knowing London, popping out in the slightly sketchy London Bridge station put us a wee bit on edge.
Bonus Day
The tour ends near the Waterloo tube stop. I wanted to check out one of the famous London curry houses but Em was not feeling as adventurous so we checked out the "modern" curry houses which would be more likely to have the hamburger that she was craving. Ripoff. So we went to a sandwich shop that advertised hamburgers and subs. Nice surprise, they have Chicken Curry and rice. Em tries to swap out the fries for a potato but it got a wee lost in translation. She got just the potato and ended up digging the chicken curry. At least Trafalgar Square was a great place to enjoy dinner.
Em and I got some Fish and Chips in Westport and headed back to the hostel to get some sleep. We ended up with room mates after all; five Slovakian kids going camping. Luckily they more or less shut up around 12.
From Ballyshannon we called Sarah, our 1st cousin twice removed. We told her we could walk it but she insisted on coming to get us (turned out as soon as we hung up it started raining, so we are glad they made the offer). Paddy and Sarah arrived and within a few minutes we were at the birthhouse of my great grandmother. As soon as we arrived we put our things down and got the tour. Sarah is such a sweet old woman that it struck Emily and me funny when she offered us a drink of whiskey. We ended up having Bailey's and biscuits (cookies) as a warm up for a lamb, cabbage, carrots and chips lunch.
We got some great family tree information and few steps down and out pretty far. Sarah's memory is absolutely amazing. Apparently we have a LOT of relatives in the US, some are even in Florida (New Smyrna Beach and, I think, Jupiter). 10 of the 12 brothers and sisters of my great grandmother left for the US and many descendents of them (including us) have visited the old homestead.
Em and I got to take a look around the property and a walk down the road. It was such a nice area and we got a great night's sleep in the Irish countryside. This morning we met Paddy's side before going to the cemetery and on to the bus stop.

I checked out from Avalon House, and picked Em up from the airport on time which is remarkable given my narrow window and her having no checked baggage. At the airport we got our train tickets to Galway (open ended) and the bus fare to get to the Heuston station. Once we arrived there was a long queque (line), so I suggested that we go to the Guinness Brewery tour and take the next train, only thing is, that next train was only an hour and 20 minutes later, which is barley enough time even if you hop to it; it takes 90 minutes at yeast.
Given that I had already been through the tour, and Em's interest in beer is not as much as mine we were able to go through a bit faster. I thought she would like the very beginning (the water fall) and the very end (Gravity Bar panorama of Dublin) but she really enjoyed it all. She even had a full pint of Guinness. I am very proud of her ::single tear::
We'reherea Gal./Connemara
Here's Emmy:
Counting sheep when you're trying to... hitchhike...
After leaving SleepZone in Killary we walked down their 1 kilometer "driveway" to the main road. We were hoping to catch a ride from someone on the way to Westport. On the way, we passed probably 20 sheep relatively close to the road. Joey and I saw these sheep yesterday when we were on the bus to SleepZone, but what was cool about being on foot was we got to hear them.
(Note to Aunt Laura: They sound exactly like "Kiwi", my stuffed sheep that baaahs when you flip it over, that you got me from New Zealand!!)
So it's just the sound of our shoes dragging across the gravel road, trickling streams, the occasional car whizzing by, and the sheep talking to each other.
We ended up walking about 4 miles before we reached a town called Leenan where we ate lunch and finally got a ride- The people that picked us up were very nice!
We then checked in to the Oldmill Holiday Hostel in Westport and walked around the metropolis (compared to Kilary and Leenan). Now we are off to eat dinner at an Irish Pub! Slainte!
"My blog is so baaa-d", Em said sheepishly :-)
After the night of Mozart and Strauss (which BTW, Aunt Laura nailed the Sousa-ish piece as the Radetsky March) I decided to press my luck and see what was playing at the Vienna Opera House. Honestly, I didn't care. It could have been a reading of the phonebook for all I cared (turns out that would have been preferable) as long as I got a look inside. It was that attitude is what made me not realize I was going to a ballet, Onegin, until the thing had started.
Onegin tells the touching story of very limber women on their way to putting a podiatrist's kids through college and men that like to frolic effeminately. The more cultured girls in front of me explained that it was actually a tragic lovestory, where one woman was sought after by two men. A love triangle. Why do the supposed "cultural" pieces usually have the thematic diversity of "Gilligan's Island"?Niles : You have been an applause junkie ever since you first set foot on a grammar school stage.
Frasier : (enraged) I was drawn to the theater because of it's discipline and collaborative spirit!
Niles : Oh, please. In your sixth-grade production of Oklahoma you took so many curtain calls, Mrs. Van Raaphorst had to lasso you and pull you from the stage.
Frasier : That woman never understood me or the roll of farmer number three!
So after walking back, I decided to hit the sack and get up early. Well that didn't happen and I got to Salzburg around 4:30ish for my flight at 8:50. I did get to see Mozart's birthhome and the Domkirche, but not much else. Given my past experience with Charleroi airport and Ryanair I wanted to take no chances on getting to the airport late and missing the flight, though I suppose there are worse things than being (von)Trapped in Salzburg.
Today I started the day with a lunch of Bangers and Mash and a pint of Guinness. I walked past a James Joyce statue, street, bar, cafe, plaza, hotel and probably other stuff. Ol JJ is to Dublin what Mozart is to Salzburg. I eventually made my way to the Guinness Brewery where they have a self guided tour that is not to be missed. The ticket is a paperweight with a drop of the black stuff inside. It also entitles you to a pint in the Gravity Bar where you get a view of Dublin that can't be beat! On the way back I stopped off for an early dinner of Irish Stew and Guinness (one more til I make it a half gallon) . Inside I met a group of four Americans traveling around from Austin. Maybe it was the beer, the layover from the flight, who knows but I got an invitation to stay with them if I am in Austin. Cool! Anyway, as with Germany, I am still waiting for this bad Irish food I hear about.
--Joey
Grüss Gött and happy Wiensday
The gardens are pretty spectacular, and there is even an on premise zoo if you are so inclined. Since it was hot, I decide to test my theory that a Radler may be more refreshing than beer. I think my hunch was right. After a little more touring I decided to go to a local restaurant that the hostel recommends. Mozart Strube is an old Vienna restaurant, and if you are at there between 18:00 and 06:00 and are staying at the Wombat, you can get a five euro Wienerschnitzel with french fries. What a deal!
So around 7:30 I headed back out. Where? Why Schönbrunn of course, to the nightly concert. Best euros ever spent! Only last night was extra special, usually the concert is held in a palace wing. Monthly or semiannually (I forgot what the guy said) they hold it in the Grand Hall. A grandiose setting for a concert of Austria's favorite sons, Strauß and Mozart. Since most of what we associate with Mozart are symphonies, I was not familiar with any (well maybe one) of the pieces selected. They ended the night with Wiener Blut, The Blue Danube Walz and another song that is well known, and unfortunately I can't recall the name (had a certain Sousa-ish quality to it) which led the audience to start clapping along. The maestro then turned around and started conducting the crowd. A night of rousing classical music without even the slightest pretension, the way that music should be enjoyed. All of which is not bad for a kid for whom a night of music usually consists of 8 or more people named "dawg", a drug addicted hasbeen and a curmudgeonly brit just bugged by the whole thing.